Earlier in the year I was contacted by Mark Matthews. I knew he was a big wave surfer and had seen videos of him surfing ridiculously big waves (see below). And also getting crunched by ridiculously big waves - checkout YouTube. But didn't know much else about him. He said he was keen to catch up to talk about fear. It sounded pretty interesting coming from someone who, to most of us, does something that seems to require an above average ability to deal with fear. So we organised to catch up and it was filmed for his new series, 'The Joy of Fear'.
We talk about my poor surfing, how I prepare for games, dealing with injury and a few other things. And also went for a surf in the rain.
Mark Matthews surfing Ship Stern Bluff in Tasmania